Hydrated Clay Gel – How to Make Himalayan & Bamboo Dragon Sole

Updated 8/30/2017
A New FAQ was Added with Commentary

Please note:  This article/tutorial is ultimately about refining the process of making hydrated clay gel to create an exceptional therapeutic clay.  Please do not think that it is absolutely necessary to use special water when working with therapeutic clay.  Many researchers believe that clay structures water by creating water in its 4th phase.  4th phase water is also known as crystal water, and has a slightly different structure, most often H32O.  This tutorial exists only to teach interested individuals how to create an even better end product.

 

Hydrated Clay Gel in Glass Jar

16 ounces of Clay Gel Hydrated with 1% Salt Sole

Back when I first began studying therapeutic clay, I would  drive out into the middle of nowhere to source the raw material to make hydrated clay.  The middle of nowhere is always a very peaceful place to be.  In the silence of the desert, it is even more so.

This was actually my favorite activity:  Getting out of the city, getting far away from work, leaving behind all electronic gadgets and simply pretending that the quiet landscape around me was endless.  I discovered that indeed it was!  I learned to sip the silence into the depths of my soul, and found the process to be regenerative.  The empty spaces revealing empty spaces cascading into vast landscapes which held up the mountains in the far distance…  I learned that this essence could be recreated within, even if only for a few short moments.

Everything became:  Limitless.  Boundless.  Expansive.   This was a place where I could actually breath, even when the temperatures soared above 115 degrees.  It was a dry heat.  Like fire.  Fire, like the volcanic clay I would gather by hand.  Fire, like the hot springs water I would use to make hydrated clay gel with.  Fire.  Like the desert sun baking both this wondrous clay and my clay-covered body.

At the end some of those days, after the sun had set, I would walk out on the clay flats with my eyes closed.  The silence was truly deafening on windless nights. I would remain absolutely motionless to experience its depths…  My soul listening only to the moonlight and the whisperings of my spirit.

The crunch of dry clay beneath my feet sounded like the march of an army once I returned to motion.   I would lose track of both space and time, drumming forward, trusting each and every step to the vast universe itself.

I would sometimes complete this nightly journey in meditation at an ancient burial ground that few people know exists.  The ghost of a civilization long gone was trapped  as memory in the tiny crystals that sparsely dotted the ground.  One time, this civilization haunted me quite directly.  The spirit of this First People was as powerful as the clays and waters nearby.  They had both messages and lessons (warnings) to teach those who had the desire to understand… or who possessed an intrinsic understanding…of all of this fire:  Don’t forget to look to the stars!

However, on most nights it was simply the echo history that haunted  my thoughts.  There were many mysteries to solve.  There still are.  One of the challenges that I’ve been working on for decades is how to transfer this amazing potential away from nature.    How can I carry this with me, how can I recreate this, how can even just a slice of this heaven be shared?

Is this theft that I am trying to achieve?  Or is it simply:  Reality revealed?

The clay formulations that are made from city water or purified water, or spring water, or even primary waters away from their points of origin, were nothing like the clay formulations made when taking the clay and mixing it directly with what many peoples have called “Doctor Water”…  Doctor Water being FAR different from the doctors disconnected from nature in the cities; as different as the properties of the water pumping through a hospital’s dry veins.

Mixing clay with the 116 degree water issued from a primary artesian spring, ONLY at the time of its emergence to the surface of the earth, simply produced an end product that was unbeatable.  This silica-rich, near-neutral pH silky water was created by a pressurized volcanic vent.  This pressure trapped compressed gasses, and the heat was created by a site-specific frequency-infused far infrared heat source in what I suspect was a crystalline “chamber”.  Between the heat source, the surrounding stone/crystal and the active volatile gasses, I was most certain that highly unique scalar waves were produced.  Doctor Water indeed!

I later demonstrated experientially that many of the properties of this water dissipated within 20-30 minutes of reaching the Earth’s surface.   Conversely, and even more amazing as far as I was concerned:  Cooling this water down within that time frame did not significantly reduce it’s potent effect, as long as the water was used fresh from the artesian spring.

Re-heating the water even to the same temperature using the power of the Death Valley Sun did not restore its unique properties.  This experimentation taught me that the far infrared produced heat was important, but it also taught me that it was not the only powerful force at work.

So, if it wasn’t the exact mineral formations/combinations, and it wasn’t the heat,  what mysterious effect was it?

Normal science proved useless.  By the time instrumentation gets involved, one is only looking at shadows.  Even if one knew what to look for, and one had instrumentation capable of viewing “it”, “it” would be long gone.  Science is good at looking at echos from the past, but it is not very good at glimpsing “this moment”.  Most scientific eurekas about these types of waters have been false positives; at best only fractals fitting into a very complex and beautiful puzzle that partially exists OUTSIDE of time and space.

It would be far easier to discover these elusive properties with an artist’s paint brush than a scientific instrument!

Now, don’t get me wrong.  Clay is one of the most potent medicinal substances on the planet, even when hydrated with normal spring water or RO water or in emergency situations, dreaded city tap water.  Please do not think that one MUST pay careful attention to the water used to hydrate clay.  Never-the-less, I’ve always been looking for a way to recreate this type of wondrous natural water to hydrate clay with.

In my quest to achieve the “UN-achievable”, I have discovered many incredible substances.  I have learned to make many unique “base waters”,  each with effects unique to the formulation.  Some of these waters I have written tutorials on.  Nature is full of wonders, and the creative human mind is capable of harnessing many unique properties for the benefit of mankind.

Other researchers have claimed to have recreated “sacred” spring waters using a variety of chemicals.  Each time I’ve come across this claim, I get excited.  I read all of the pseudo science and quite often buy into it hook, line, and sinker.  I SO DESPERATELY WANT TO BELIEVE!

Ultimately, I’ve always been extremely disappointed in the results.  Some of the products are good.  Sometimes, people have gotten irked at my criticism toward specific products, so I won’t name names; critical thinking is sometimes not very welcome.  Getting into the controversy at this point would detract from the purpose of this piece of writing.  I will just say that if a person hasn’t experienced “the real thing”, then it is easy to be mislead.  When you add in profit motive, a subject that should be very light can get quite dark.  It is also very easy to fool oneself!

What I try to do now is to keep my viewpoint simple:  No, this is NOT what I’ve experienced.  This is NOT what I’m looking for.  This is not what I’m trying to achieve.  I try to keep myself absolutely honest and also try to remember the end goal.  I’m not looking for an industrial chemical to change the properties of water, or substances that perpetually infuse water with dissolved solids.  My long quest reaches outside of the bounds of science (but from WELL within!), and into the realm of the sacred.

Which brings us to the point of this post.  The closest thing I’ve developed is a substance I playfully call “Himalayan Dragon Sole”.  What follows is a basic tutorial on how to make it, specifically for use with therapeutic clay.

This formulation should be considered a “base water”.  It can be further modified as desired, or simply used as is.

How to Make Himalayan & Bamboo Dragon Sole

Please read through the entire tutorial before gathering supplies.  You may elect to modify certain parts to suit your own personal needs!

Supplies Needed

Try to find supplies that are as close to the ones recommended as possible.  However, if something is not available, don’t be afraid to get creative!  Just remember, do not use metal with any of the ingredients used in this formulation, such as a jar with a metal lid, or any alloy metal storage container.

1.  A ceramic water crock – We use water crocks similar to the image depicted.  Feel free to be creative in your selection.  However, keep in mind that your water storage container should be made out of a natural ceramic or stone material for best results.  Make sure that the one you choose doesn’t have a metal spout.  It’s not a SERIOUS concern, but it’s better to use a plastic spout.  Furthermore, try to find something with a base.  We have a purpose for the (wooden) base!  I use 3 gallon non-BPA containing plastic jugs which fit on the top to store water.  However, 5 gallons of water can be used also.

You can also choose to purchase a water cradle.  A proper water cradle is expensive and not necessary.  Just for fun, I’ll include some pictures at the end of the tutorial when it is updated.

 

2.  Original Crystal Himalayan Salt Stones – 1 kg –   Himalayan Crystal Salt MicrographPlease note that it is very important to get the crystal salt stones. For authenticity, please purchase from the Natural Health International (American BlueGreen LLC).  This particular product is sourced from a very unique deposit where it is hand gathered and processed without machinery.  This salt has been crystallized by an immense amount of pressure caused by the creation of the Himalayan mountains.  As such, it has very unique properties.  The salt is over 250 million years old and is considered by some to be the most pristine source on the planet.  The micrograph (left image) shows the highly unique crystalline formation, which is quite different from “regular” sea salt.   When hydrated, this salt has a slight negative ORP when completely saturated in water.  As such, it has antioxidant properties.

 

Himalayan Crystal Salt - Large Crystals

Himalayan Crystal Salt – Large Crystals

 

3.  9 Times Roasted Bamboo Salt – There are two different manufacturers of bamboo salt that we recommend.  The amazon.com link is for 240 grams of Insan brand Ultimate Nine Times Roasted Bamboo Salt.  This is as close to the original “authentic” bamboo salt as you can get.  Manufacturing is overseen by the son of the Korean bamboo salt’s original inventor.

The second source (coming soon) we plan on marketing to help reduce the cost of using this amazing mineral.  It is White Nine Times Roasted Bamboo salt from Korea.  The second source is much more affordable and is produced by a Korean engineer who has been scientifically studying the process for decades.  It is made with a scientifically improved process.

Please view the commentary on the difference between the two manufacturer’s salt in order to make a decision on which one you’d like to use.

Purple Nine Times Roasted Bamboo Salt Crystals

Purple Nine Times Roasted Bamboo Salt Crystals

4.  A handful of clear quartz crystals.  I prefer Brazilian quartz, but any clear quartz crystals will do.  I like to use enough crystals to cover the bottom of whatever water vessel I am using.  That said, even just a few will work.  While you can use whatever water crystals you desire, please keep in mind that quartz will change the property of the water without dissolving anything into the water!  This is highly desirable to keep the water as clean and pure as possible.  For example, you can use shungite water stones to change the properties of water.  However, after a few days of being submerged, one can measure up to an additional 50 PPM of dissolved solids that was not there prior to the addition of the stones.

You can use points, like the crystal in the recommended link above (from amazon.com), or you can use quartz crystal chunks.  If you use the chunks from healingcrystals.com, I recommend  purchasing two bags of the 1 1/4 – 1 3/4 sized crystals.

When making a base water to hydrate clay with, the idea is to control as many variables as possible, and this certainly includes dissolved solids.

Brizilian Clear Quartz - Water Stones

Clear Brazilian Quartz Crystals – Water Stones

5.  Therapeutic clay – In this tutorial, we will be using our green desert clay.  However, one can of course use any high quality healing clay!

6.  3 Glass canning jars / glass storage containers – Feel free to use whatever is on hand.  Three glass vessels will be required.  One larger glass jar (16 ounce, 32 ounce, etc.), one smaller glass jar (8 ounce), and one storage container to make and store the clay.  A 16 ounce hermetically sealed jar is great.  However, a simple jar like this one is actually easier to use, and a bit more affordable as well.  Just remember to NOT use any metal lids.  Plastic lids are fine.  One can also use a plastic sandwich bag and a rubber band to seal canning jars.  Two of these containers will be used to make salt sole, so the size is really not that important.

7.  Four rare earth magnets – Don’t get caught up in worrying about how powerful or large they are.  If you have smaller ones on hand, use them!  I use smaller block magnets (see below) rather then the longer ones.  One can use the circular ones as well.  Nearly all rare earth magnets will have a field strong enough to use with a water crock (or other water vessel).

8.  Purified Drinking Water – Try to use a very clean source of water.  Reverse osmosis water is ideal, or spring water with minimal dissolved solids.

The Process

The process is not difficult.  Doing it “the natural way” does take time and a bit of patience.

The first step is to “make” the water which will be used.

The second step is to make sole (pronounced so-lay).  Sole (sol) is the Latin word for sun.  The word salt also owes it origin to the root word sol.  In the western world, sole is called brine.  This is nothing more than a fully saturated salt solution.  It is made by mixing as much salt into water as it will hold.  Sole has a salinity level of 26%; just over one part salt to four parts water.

In this tutorial, two distinctly different sole formulas will be used.  One is a Himalayan crystal salt sole.    The second one is nine times roasted bamboo salt sole.  I like to call the bamboo salt sole:  “Dragon Sole”.  Bamboo salt is very sulfurous compared to regular sea salt.

Once the two salt soles are complete, the salt sole waters are combined.  The water is then carefully combined with the dry clay powder.  Then, one simply needs to wait for natural to complete the process!

Making The Water

For the purposes of this tutorial, use purified water.  Reverse osmosis water will suffice.  As noted in the supply section, a water crock of some kind will be needed.  I use a three gallon water jug which fits on top of the water crock.

However, before using the water crock, the first step is to prepare the base.

First, place the four rare earth magnets on the base of the water crock, as shown below.  Use a negative-negative-positive-positive formation, which produces a net neutral magnetic field.  This means that you put two magnets with the north pole facing up, and two magnets with the south pole facing up.  It doesn’t matter what order you place the magnets on the base.

If in doubt, “stick” all four magnets together.  Place a dot on top of the first one.  Carefully remove it.  Mark a dot on the second one.  Carefully remove it.  Now, mark a dot on the BOTTOM of the last one.  Pull apart the magnet, and place a dot on the BOTTOM of the last one.  Now, just be sure that you place all of the magnets with the “dot” facing up!

Place the four magnets so that they are evenly positioned.  It doesn’t have to be perfect, but the base legs make it easy to position the magnets properly.  Below, I’ve used some old and well worn block magnets.  If you wish, you can glue the magnets to the base, but this is not required.

 

Rare Earth Magnets on the Base

Four Rare Earth Magnets on the Base of the Water Crock

Next, place the ceramic water container on its base.  Take the quartz crystals and spread them out on the bottom of the ceramic container.

Brazlian Quartz Crystal - Water Stones

A Handful of Brazilian Quartz Crystal Water Stones

Once this is completed, fill the ceramic water crock with water (place the jug of purified water onto the ceramic container).  Allow the water to set for about 24 hours before using it to hydrate clay.  This also makes an excellent base drinking water.

What is the purpose of the magnets and the quartz crystals?  The magnetic field and the quartz crystal work together to structure and energize the water.  Quartz is simply a crystal made from SiO2 (silicon dioxide).  Crystals act as transducers, producing energy in the form of vibration when exposed to light, and producing energy in the form of light when exposed to pressure.

There are many conflicting viewpoints about how effective this water structuring method is.  Scientific experiments have both supported and refuted structuring water with crystal (most of the studies have been done on plants).  However, the fact of the matter is that crystals do transduce energy, and the weight of the water does provide enough pressure to have an effect.  What is debatable is whether or not this effect is beneficial!

The magnetic field increases the water’s hydrogen bonding ability.  In a manner of speaking, the “water becomes wetter”.  The result is the creation of smaller water clusters.  Some researchers believe that using a magnetic field with water results in the water taking on a hexagonal structure.  There are many fun experiments that show the difference between “normal” water, and water structured with a magnetic field.  I will be adding some links with examples to the “outside resources” section of this tutorial.  That said, there are of course many critics that believe the only thing that one is making is “wonky water”.

The bottom line:  Taste the water!  It is not necessary to get caught up in the controversy of water structuring, since using the above method  causes no harm.  If you have been hydrating clay with purified water, distilled water, or standard spring water, you will be very pleasantly surprised at how well this all turns out in the end!

Making Bamboo “Dragon” Sole

Nine times roasted purple bamboo salt is one of the most interesting and amazing salts in the world.  In some circles, it is known as “Red ORMUS”.   This Korean formulation was pioneered by Dr. Insan in 1917.  The process involves roasting solar sea salt in bamboo sealed with a pink clay.  The salt is heated until it “melts” and becomes a molten magma.  Through this alchemical process, the salt is purified and inherits some of bamboo’s properties.  It is highly alkaline, sulfurous, and the minerals are completely ionized (extremely bio-available and bio-active).  When using the ultimate purple nine times roasted bamboo salt, the SOLE that we will be making has a negative ORP (oxygen reduction potential) of up to -530. It’s pH is above 11.5.

Making "Dragon" Bamboo Sole

Nine Times Roasted Bamboo Salt Crystals in Water

Fill your small glass container about halfway up with nine times roasted bamboo salt. In reality, you only need to fill it 1/4.  However, by filling it halfway, you will be certain to have a fully saturated salt solution, and you will always have extra sole available for other uses.

Next, fill the glass up with the quartz crystal “structured” water from the water crock.  Seal the container.  Let sit for 24 to 48 hours.  The water will eventually become fully saturated with salt, making a 26% solution.  Don’t be concerned about any black specs floating in the water.  This is simply leftover ash; it’s probably even better than activated charcoal.

After 48 hours, as long as there are salt crystals at the bottom of the container, you will have a perfect sole solution.  As long as the salt crystals remain, the “energy” of the salt will also be perfectly stable (as measured by a negative ORP).  After using any amount of sole, simply refill the container with the purified crystal water and reseal the container.

Once the sole has been removed from the container housing the crystals, its energy will slowly dissipate.  Therefore, leave the sole in container until you are ready to actually use it!

Making Himalayan Crystal Salt Sole

Fill your large glass container about halfway up with the Himalayan salt crystals.

Next, fill the glass up with the quartz crystal “structured” water from the water crock.  Seal the container.  Let sit for 24 to 48 hours.  The water will eventually become fully saturated with salt, making a 26% solution.

After 48 hours, as long as there are salt crystals at the bottom of the container, you will have a perfect sole solution.  As long as the salt crystals remain, the “energy” of the salt will also be perfectly stable (as measured by a negative ORP).  After using any amount of sole, simply refill the container with the purified crystal water and reseal the container.

Making Himalayan Crystal Salt Sole

Himalayan Salt Crystals – Making Sole

Once the sole has been removed from the container housing the crystals, its energy will slowly dissipate.  Therefore, leave the sole in container until you are ready to actually use it!

You might notice something interesting that occurs only with the Himalayan sole.  You notice tiny bubbles “sticking” to the side of the glass.  These tiny bubbles only occur with the Himalayan salt sol.  Although one may think that these two salts are similar, in actuality they are quite unique to each other!

You will have plenty of extra salt sole to work with.  Make a 1% solution with your purified water and use it as a drinking water additive.  Or, add some sole to your clay baths.

Finishing the Sole

Once you have waited about 48 hours, it is time to complete the sole and combine it with clay.

The primary principle involved in this whole process is called creative synthesis.  We only combine two substances at a time, and we wait for the two substances to create a third substance.  The third substance is unique, but has qualities of both used to make it;  the two substances become one, and then we combine another two substances to become another single substance.

The next step is to make the Himalayan bamboo dragon sole.  In this tutorial, we will be using about 16 ounces of water (2 cups, 473 ml) to one cup of clay powder.  The yield will be about 16 ounces of clay gel.

Take about two cups of the purified water from the water crock.  You can use any plastic measuring “cup”.  Set it aside for the moment.

The goal is to make this two cups of water into a 1% sole solution (not to be confused with creating a solution with 1% salinity!).   To calculate the desired end solution, take the 16 ounces of water, and multiply it times 1% (0.01).  The amount of sole we need to add to the water is therefore 0.16 ounces.  At this point, it is easier to work with ml.  The amount of sole we will be using is about 5 ml.

In a small measuring cup, add about 2.5 ml of the Himalayan crystal salt sole and 2.5 ml of the bamboo salt dragon sole.  Mix these together, or let them combine for three minutes or so.

Next, add the five ml of the new sole into the cup containing the 16 ounces of water.  Let the water sit for five minutes or so, or mix well with a stir rod.

Clay Powder, Himalayan Dragon Salt Sole (with a clay mineral stir rod), Hermetically Sealing Glass Jar

Once the water is ready, it is time to make the clay gel.  Please remember that as soon as the salt soles leave their salty homes, the electrons start to dissipate into… and then out of… the water.  While this process is very slow, it is perpetual.  It is important to start to mix the water with the clay soon after making the 1% sole solution!  We want that energy being absorbed and transduced by the clay.

Here comes the tricky part that makes the process an art form.

First, take about two tablespoons of water and pour it into the glass jar.  Then, take one tablespoonful of clay, and sprinkle it over the water as evenly as possible.  Let the water absorb clay for thirty seconds or so.  Next, take another two tablespoons of water and gently pour it on top of the first layer.

Sole and Clay

Water Layered on Top of Clay

 

Clay and Sole

Clay Layered on Top of Water

Keep layering the water and clay in this manner until you are finished.  You may have a bit of clay and water left over if you don’t want to fill the jar all of the way up!  You should be left with about two parts water to one part clay, by volume.

Please note that it is a rookie mistake to accidentally use more clay than water per layer.  What happens is that you end with too much water at the end, which will have to be layered on top of the clay.  Then, it will have to be forced down to the bottom of the clay jar as time progresses.

If you end up with too much excess water, you can slowly push the clay from the top to the bottom a little bit every day to even out the formulation.  But first, let the clay set for 24 hours before messing with it! This mistake can end up making an inferior product.  It can also be frustrating.  Every day or two, carefully poke large holes through the clay, all around the container, so that the water can evenly soak down to the bottom.

When this mistake happens, it is sometimes better to throw in the towel and simply use a blender!  Yes, a blender can be used to create external-use clay gel, but it is NOT the preferred method.  It does kind of ruin the art and sacredness of the whole process!  The properties of the clay will be temporarily changed, but the clay will recover!

If you have succeeded in getting the measurements close, then proceed to the next step:

Seal the container, and forget about it for a few weeks.  Let the clay and water do all of the work!

An astute observer will likely note that this tutorial is a bit inefficient.  A more efficient method would be to use a wide base ceramic or plastic bin.  Add two cups of water to the bottom, and then carefully sprinkle one cup of clay over the water.  This is true!  You can make a lot more clay and with less time invested.  As long as you respect the layering process with two parts water first, then one part clay, the end product will be great… PROVIDED:

  1.  That you create some depth in the container by layering clay and water!  If you do not create depth (fill the container up), then evaporation will ruin the process.  Any container used should be filled close to the top, and then SEALED.
  2. That you don’t make your layers too thick.  If you make the layers too thick, the water will not evenly disperse throughout the clay in the time allotted.
  3. That you are working in a clean environment.  The more surface area of clay exposed to the ambient air, the more it sucks in environmental contaminants.

Know how much clay you would like to make, and plan accordingly!

A good idea is to use the 2 gallon HDPE pail that the green desert clay ships in.  Another good idea is to use a one gallon pail.

The clay gel can even be safely stored in these containers, PROVIDED that the containers remain in a climate controlled environment outside of direct sunlight, AND provided that the clay is for external use only.  It is far better to transfer the clay, once complete, into glass or ceramic storage containers, but sometimes this may not be feasible.

Our long term studies show that if the food grade hard plastic doesn’t break down, then the clay properties remain undisturbed.  HOWEVER, if the hard plastic does start to break down (temperature changes, sunlight, etc.), then the clay is easily ruined when stored for long periods of time.

Either way, clay can be made in these types of containers without making any real sacrifices.  To be absolutely certain, only use glass or ceramic when making clay for internal use.  Safety first!

It is also a great idea to first treat any plastic container with thick clay water.  Simply soak clay water in such a container for a week or so.  The clay will pull out any contaminants that might otherwise cause concern.

It is of course a far better idea to always use ceramic or glass!

Commentary

Please note that I will likely be adding to this commentary as time goes on!

 This is the first major piece of writing I’ve done specifically about how to make clay gel in a very long time.  At least from my perspective, it represents a breakthrough in clay hydration.  The difference is that pronounced!

One of the things that this method does is take what is most often a “sloppy clay” and transform it into a “sticky clay”.  This makes the clay much easier to work with.  It stays in place without sliding around once placed on the body.

Both functionally and energetically, the body appears to accept the energy field of the clay more readily.  The skin also responds MUCH better.  The salt sole water tempers the dryness of the clay quite well.  Remember, salt water is only “salty” when it is hypertonic… When the solution contains more salt than the blood stream does.  An isotonic salt solution is a solution containing 0.9% salt. This is the salinity of the human blood stream.  Therefore, our 0.1% salt sole will be hydrating rather than dehydrating.

Therefore, you may choose to increase the amount of sole in your clay gel formulations without risk of creating an end product that is excessive drying.

I’ve used hundreds of different water and clay combinations over the years.  This is the best “core” formulation that I’ve found.  It comes very close to the clay magma I would create out in nature using raw clay and geothermal artesian hot springs water.  In my opinion, this method sets a new standard for quality.

Respecting the process of creative synthesis, this core clay gel can then be modified to suit.  Small amounts of high quality essential oils can be used.  It can also be mixed with apple cider vinegar for skin care.  Also, one can mix in a little olive oil right before use for skin conditioning.

EIS colloidal silver can also be used (for external use), just like all of our wound care formulations.  The “silver water” would be used as the purified water source, rather than reverse osmosis water.  The CS would be added to the water production vessel containing the quartz crystal water stones.  Upon mixing the SOLE into the water, much of the silver will be converted to silver chloride (and other compounds).  However, for external use, this is not a concern.  The silver will still have a beneficial effect on the skin/tissues.

Bamboo Salt Experiment

Insan has been the gold standard for roasting bamboo salt.  However, as a part of my research, I enjoy testing out all similar products so that I can determine for myself which product I would like to use.  I try to balance quality with affordability, with a major emphasis on quality.  When I found KoreaSalt, and began corresponding with its owner, I thought that I would perhaps find a more affordable alternative.  I thought that the salt would probably come close to the same quality, but I suspected that Insan would remain the gold standard.

Please remember that we are talking about the most expensive salt in the world…  so perhaps it might be worthwhile taking a bit of time to investigate!

I acquired samples of both.  Both had the expected negative ORP reading when hydrated, as well as pH readings.

I began by comparing the two like Dr. Richard Schulze always taught his budding herbalist students:  By smell, taste, texture, and color.  The two purple salts were very different.  Both salts were manufactured using the same general set of principles; both were correctly roasted nine times using Dr. Insan’s original methods.  “The herbalist’s” comparison revealed differences in color, texture, smell and taste, but didn’t really reveal what these differences meant.  Both had a very strong taste, which one would expect from a good bamboo salt.  Both passed the smell test.  The color of the salts, while different, didn’t reveal anything negative about either.  Both seemed like great bamboo salts, but I couldn’t even come close to making a determination on quality differences.

So I devised an experiment that would hopefully determine which salt was better.  The experiment introduced water and time.  How would each sample precipitate given equal amounts of time while setting in equal amounts of water?  What would the increase in energy density caused by the reduction of water produce (evaporation)?

To reproduce the experiment is easy.

Create a salt sole with each bamboo salt.  Make sure that there are extra salt crystals so that the ORP remains stable for the experiment.  Simply measure the exact amount of salt for each sole (in grams), and use the same amounts of the same water (by volume) for each sole.  Set the two samples aside.  Do not cover them.  Let them breath so that natural evaporation occurs.  Let the samples sit for anywhere between 3 and 7 days.  Do not pay attention to the samples so that sub/unconscious influence  is minimized (quantum variables are sometimes very real).

Below are the pictures resulting from this experiment.  I think that the pictures speak for themselves.  I did the best job I could with the photography to capture the differences.  The imagery is not perfect, but it is representative of what I observed with the actual samples.

Please note:  The pictures labeled “Image 1” are a bit off scale, but not as much as you might imagine (scale has been properly corrected in the 2nd image set).  The point of the first images is to show the difference in precipitation… both on the surface of the solution, and on the container sides.  I wanted to clearly show the sides of the containers as well as the solutions within them.  If you would like to see the original images to more carefully compare, click on the “raw” links for each sample.

For the last set of images (labeled “Image 2”), the scale of the images has been corrected to highlight the difference in the precipitation on the surface (middle) of the solution.  The raw images are also included.

 

Nine Times Roasted Bamboo Salt - Precipitate
Insan 9 Times Roasted Bamboo Salt - Precipitate

Koreasalt – Image 1
The salt precipitation on the sides remains closer to the actual salt solution.
This can be interpreted as the salt being more dense.

raw image (very large may take a few moment to download)

Insan – Image 1
The salt precipitation on the sides of the container travel quite a bit upward toward the top of the glass.
For the “lighter” salt precipitation, it becomes more “mat”, with very little definition to the salt crystals.

raw image (very large may take a few moment to download)

 

Side of Containers

Koreasalt (Left) & Insan (Right) – Precipitation on the Sides of the Glass Containers indicate differences in salt density

 

Koreasalt - Sample 2

Koreasalt Image 2

The Koreasalt sample has very tight-knit crystals form a very small precipitation pool in the middle of the solution, with very small crystals with a highly refined structure:  My interpretation of this:  More energy involved forming the precipitate.  View the  Raw Image.

 

Insan - Sample 2

Insan – Image 2

The Insan sample has a very wide “circle” of salt precipitation compared to the Koreasalt sample.  The pattern shows less cohesion. The crystals appear larger with a less refined structure.  My interpretation of this:  Less energy was involved in forming the precipitate.  View the raw Image.

The difference between the two samples is VERY pronounced.  Insan’s salt appears to be lighter (meaning less dense) and less structured.  How does this affect how each salt works in the body?  Who knows.  The functional difference may or may not be negligible.  Both salts are of fine quality.

However, my interpretation is that Koreasalt is using a much more clean and efficient burning method, which would make the end product more pure.

Water Egg / Cradle

Water Egg / Cradle

Water Egg / Cradle || Orgonite Base || Tensor Coil || Shungite Cap || Brazilian Quartz Water Stone

 

If one desires to truly master the use of water, then some sort of natural flow forms must be utilized.  Overcoming the issue of stagnant water is the biggest challenge when working with water outside of nature.

Water inside this crystalline egg is in always in motion.  The shape of the egg coupled with the ceramic material creates temperature changes in the water.  Therefore, the water is always slowly circulating as the warmer air rises and the cooler air descends.  As Viktor Schauberger discovered, the egg shape is a perfect natural form.  Its measurements are an expression of the golden ratio, just like seeds, eggs, and a womb.

The water in water egg cradle ascends and descends in a narrow and a wide spiral.  It is very difficult to find a more beautiful and geometrically perfect design for water storage!

 

 

Water Egg - Viktor S. - Flow Forms

Water Egg – Viktor Schauberger – Flow Forms

 

Viktor Schauberger Drawing – Water Egg

 

Flow Form

Flow Form Pattern

There are different kinds of structured water.  This particular one I like to call “resting water”.  Resting water tastes much more dense and has far less molecular activity than active water.  Active water usually has minute amounts of hydrogen peroxide (activated oxygen), and tastes much lighter.  It is more of a thirst quenching water.  You would find active structured water in a water fall, or water rushing down a river during the spring snow melt, or even water during steam creation.

Another natural resting water would be glacial water slowly forming in pools due to a slow melt.  A deep natural well lined with crystal/stone would be another example of resting water.

In my water egg/cradle, I use crystal-treated reverse osmosis water with a minute amount of water washed clay, and a tiny amount of silver-infused zeolite…  The amounts I use are so small that it is even difficult to see the Tyndall effect, and the end water is usually between 10 – 15 parts per million of dissolved solids:  Very clean!   I also use a single Brazilian quartz crystal in the egg itself.

Notice that this egg has the large base as the bottom.

Outside Resources of Interest

The book:  Water and Salt, The Essence of Life – A very interesting book specifically about the Himalayan Crystal Salt.

The book:  Bamboo Salt is Science – A scientific look at bamboo salt.  The link is for a 135 page .pdf file.  This was written by an engineer that has studied the process of making roasted bamboo salt for decades.

Jon Barron’s fascinating article on magnetized water.   A great read for an introduction on structuring water with a magnetic field.  This includes photos of a plant growth experiment using a control vs. magnetized water.

Another article on magnetizing water.  This interesting website, among other things, demonstrates the descaling ability of magnetized water.

Scientific study showing potential anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory effects of nine times roasted bamboo salt:  Pub Med

FAQ

I’m not really clear what the salt sole clay does. Is it primarily for prettier skin? Can people eat it for detoxification? I Just wanted to know about the uses for it!

…all of the above!  I’ll most likely be writing more about using salt  sole clay in the future.  Suffice it to say that it can be used the same way as “normal” hydrated clay.  You can take a teaspoon of clay gel and consume it, or mix it with water and drink it.  You can use it for compresses, poultices and skin care.

It is very difficult to find a way to explain the difference that good water makes.  The best way to proceed from a scientific perspective is to view the study done by Sandia National Laboratory in Los Alamos, New Mexico.  This study is available from our clay science page.  This study highlights how clay selectively and “intelligently” interacts with bio-chemicals to produce unique effects.  Clay changes the “bio-chemicals” it comes in contact with, and this interaction also changes the clay.

The “by intelligent design” is the part that can give one chills.  This effect is observed by science, but not exactly understood. Clay always responds either to break down and eliminate toxic byproducts, or to “forward the design” of substances like amino acids.  It is these properties that have led to the coined term:   “living clay”.

You said “by intelligent design”, and that clay breaks some things down and indicated that it builds other things up.  Don’t you think that you might be just a little bit crazy?

Perhaps!  But this is beside the point.  Very capable and accomplished scientists are the ones who have validated these three central ideas.  In some cases, despite themselves.  For example, Dr. Benjamin H. Ershoff describes therapeutic clay’s ability to break things down as “enzymatic activity” or “mimicking enzyme” function.  Enzymes, by biological design, intelligently break substances down according their biochemical makeup.  Dr. Ershoff was sometimes very confused by the facts that his scientific study revealed.

Professor Graham Cairns-Smith explains the “by intelligent design” portion by hypothesizing that clay particles were actually the blueprints for mammalian cells; even the origin of life itself.  From his perspective, clay’s ability to organize biochemicals in a manner that is beneficial to higher life forms may be simply a product of perfect geometry and physics.

Either way, all three of these ideas have been demonstrated and recorded by scientific inquiry using the scientific method.  While the science is far from complete, it has provided a solid foundation for making these statements!

Do you have to use Himalayan and bamboo salt to make sole?

No.  You can use one or the other.  You can also use any other natural sea salt.  I’ve chosen these two salts because they represent the highest quality salts out there, with properties that complement each other.

Who invented the layering method of clay hydration.  Where did it come from?  Is it really a better way to hydrate clay?

I actually independently discovered/invented this method of clay hydration, although I am certainly not the only one who has done so.  My experience is somewhat unique, as I have spent dozens upon dozens of hours in nature studying how pure, natural clay deposits react and respond to weather.  I’ve watched pure clay rock get wet and then sun dry over and over again.  I’ve examined veins of clay from deep beneath the earth, and studied how these veins of pure clay were created.  The short answer is this is how nature naturally dries and hydrates clay.

Please don’t take this the wrong way:  There’s nothing wrong with other methods.  This method is superior, however, because it allows clay to hydrate naturally and interact with water without interference.  Please consider that both the clay and the water are actually crystalline at this point.  Using this hydration method results in hydrated clay that is far more dense and organized.  Any kind of mixing introduces more air into the clay.  This usually increases the aerobic plate counts and changes how the charge layers form.

For some clays, it is harder to reach a super-hydrated state without mixing.  Super-hydrated clay changes the focus from the CLAY to the WATER, as clay is hydrated to the point where the charge layers barely stay organized.  A super-hydrated clay gel is more dynamic, allowing much more motion of the water.  A super-hydrated clay is in gel form ONLY when it is not physically moving.  When you move it or pour it or scoop it up it acts as clay water.

I have not done very much writing about super-hydration of clay,  because many clays appear to have only two hydration points, with the third point being very elusive!  There are a few clays out there, however, that have three distinct hydration points.  There may be unique uses for such clay, and I may one day write about this topic in another tutorial.  I say this here only to emphasize that there are circumstances where mixing can be advantageous!