Eytons' Earth: Natural & Alternative Medicine

[captainfarrell]

Hello everyone. I'm new to this colloidal silver stuff. However, one thing that perplexes me is how to figure out if I made this stuff correctly, what ppm I have and also I've read that you use a siphon to get the water in the middle. Could someone enlighten me? I'm using this design, which uses a 9v ac to dc converter for the silver wires and a fish tank oxygenator to stir the water.

Is this design ok? Some other sites say that you need 30v or more with 4 9v batteries? I'd rather not have to have the hassle of battery replacing, unless they last a while. I've looked at the pics on this site with the laser pen. It makes no sense to me. What is the correct way to measure this stuff? Is there a device to test the solution that I could buy?

Also I read that using the proper distilled water is a must. Any recommendations? All I've found is the distilled water at Wal Mart in plastic jugs.

I just want to make this stuff properly, that's all. Sorry for so many questions.
Here's a link to the device I made.

http://www.lwpub.com/downloads/CS_archives/make_silver_generator3.htm
Kevin

captainfarrell@verizon.net

[eytonsearth]

Hi Kevin:

Your setup will make a suitable colloidal silver. However, consider changing out the air pump with a water circulation pump. There's really no need to add the variable of adding room air into the water with an air pump, when a water circulation pump does equally well, if not better.

Since you are not using a current limiting device, make certain to keep your brew times shorter ( don't run the device for hours per batch, only 20-30 minutes after noticing the reaction at the electrode ). You can use a Hanna PWT meter to test the conductivity of the water before and after brewing, to give you an idea of the strength.

If you can find some electronics help, consider adding a current limiting diode:

A CURRENT LIMITING DIODE, CLD, also known as a "Current Regulating
Diode" or a "Constant Current Diode" performs quite a unique function.
Similar to a zener diode, which regulates voltage at a particular
current, the CLD limits or regulates current over a wide voltage range.

Available in a wide range of voltage and current ratings, and offered
in a variety of leaded and surface mount package styles, the CLD
provides an alternative to conventional design techniques for
controlling current, especially when reliability and component density
are prime considerations.


Basically, it's a small, cylindrical body about a 1/4" (6mm) long and
about a third that in diameter, with wires coming out each end. You
hook it up in series with your generating cell. They come in sizes
rated from about .22 to 4.7 milliamps and they can handle supply
voltages up to about 100V, I think.

If it's backwards, with respect to the battery polarity, it'll block
current completely. In the other direction, it will allow no more than
a certain amount of current specified by the part's current rating.

On a practical level, you want to have a digital milliamp meter
connected in series so you can see what's going on. If you don't own
one already, they're available cheaply from places like Harbor Freight
Tools, Radio Shack, or many other vendors of electronic equipment.

When you start, the current will be well below the rating of the diode,
until enough silver gets into the water to let more current flow. It
will slowly climb and, after a long enough wait, it'll limit at or
close to the diode current limit value.

The diodes are available from Mouser Electronics:

http://www.mouser.com

If you type the three terms "curr reg diodes" into their site search
box, it will bring up a listing of all that are available.
Unfortunately, more sensible terms like "current regulator diodes"
don't work!
( - Thanks Mike G. for the great text explanation )

The only way to truly gauge your PPM is to have your standardized batch tested, and calibrate to a reading with a Hanna PWT meter.

By using a Hanna PWT meter, you can check the quality of the distilled water before making CS. The reading should be below .9 uS... Preferrably below .4 uS.


Best Regards,
_________________
~ Jason

Learn about the benefits of Colloidal Silver & ozone therapy & ozone generators.

[captainfarrell]

Thanks for the reply. I know nothing of electronics. I know what a diode looks like and a capacitor, but I don't understand diagrams and such. I'm using a variable control AC/DC converter, it goes from 3v to 12v. I was told that I want to use 9v. Now if that is the case, what would I use for a diode and would I just split the + or - wire from the converter to the silver rod and put the diode in place?

Also, I have a RS multimeter that goes up to 20V, I don't know if it does milliamps. This crap is so confusing. I wish I had the money to buy one of these already built.

Thanks for the help.

Kevin